Bella Boca: Museo Benito Quinquela Martín

La Boca at once both attracts and repels. On one hand it is celebrated as one of Buenos Aires’ least changed barrios, stubbornly retaining its wayward charm; on the other it is maligned for its crime, pollution, and violence. Porteños will roll their eyes at camera-toting tourists hailing cabs for El Caminito, the neighbourhood’s iconic, …

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El Buen Sabor: Villa Crespo’s Heart of Delicious

West African blues twangs from the speakers and coalesces with the sounds of fish grilling, plantains sizzling, and the muffled bang of a pot or pan coming from the small kitchen. A map of Africa painted in red, its countries labelled in French, offers diners a silent geography lesson from the wall above the beer-stocked …

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Buenos Aires’ Youth Orchestras: Social Change Through Music

It is a humid, overcast morning at Primary School No. 26 Bandera Argentina, in Retiro. The modest, one-storey schoolhouse, wedged between a large drab post office and the looming grey shell of a building that was never completed, pulses with activity despite the fact that it is early on a Saturday. Children run through the …

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BA Round 2: First couple of months…

Two-and-a-half months here in South America have come and gone much faster than I would have liked and, although the trip's been well-documented at least in the privacy of my own journal, I've only just recently reconciled myself with the technology that allows me to share those experiences with others --- hence this blog. Here …

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